A Hooded Towel for Christmas!

It has finally come, that time to put away the other projects and focus on my Christmas sewing. Yea! I love Christmas!

When my oldest son was born, a beautiful lady from my church made a hooded towel for him. That towel was WONDERFUL! It was large enough to wrap him up in and absorbent enough to really get him dry. I just LOVED it!

As I was thinking about gifts for my grandsons this year, I knew that I wanted to make a large, soft, hooded towel for them too. I wish I had kept that old towel to use as a pattern, but it has been long, long gone. I searched the internet and Pinterest for patterns that were similar or that I liked, but I couldn’t find one that gave clear enough instructions. So… to make this long story short — I just designed my own!

The pattern is EASY!! And the tutorial makes sewing the towel a breeze :). If you have any babies or toddlers on your Christmas list, you might want to try your hand at sewing them a Hooded Towel. 🙂

Supply List:

  • One Bath Towel
  • One Hand Towel
  • Matching Thread

Instructions:

  • If you want to add embroidery or ribbon or appliqué etc., add it to your hand towel first. Make sure that the embellishments are between 6” – 9” from the bottom of the towel. You can add bows and buttons or more after the towel is sewn.

  • With the right side of the towel facing down, fold the bottom of the towel up about 5”. If you are adding embellishments, Check to make sure that the fold covers the whole thing. If not, make the fold larger.
  • On the front of the towel, sew a top stitch close to the fold.
  • On the back of the towel, sew the top of the folded flap down.

The front will now look like this.

  • With the right side facing up, fold the edge you just sewed back on itself 6.5”
  • Sew these sides closed

  • Find the center of the towel on the fold and place a pin there.
  • With a ruler, place the 3’ mark at the pin and mark 3” on either side with a pin.

  • Sew from the pin to the end of the flipped edge.Back stitch and secure this edge quite a bit. I have marked in chalk your sewing line from the pin to the end of the flipped edge. You do not need to mark your towel

  • Cut the corners of folded edge next to the angled stitching.
  • Cut the free edge of the towel 3” from the fold as in the above picture.

This next step is the only somewhat tricky part, but it really just feels a bit awkward. It’s not hard. You can do it!:)

  • Mark the center of the folded, top of the hood with a pin.
  • Fold the back of the towel lengthwise starting at the pin. Fold the hood evenly in half lengthwise pinning as needed.
  • Sew from the top pin down to the bottom about 1” over. I have marked in chalk your sewing line

You will have a hood with a dart on the back when you are done . Yea! You did it:)

  • Finish all of your cut edges with a serger or with a zig zag stitch.

  • Sew the side wings down that are barely below the hood

  • Find the center of the long or wide side of your towel.
  • Pin the hood to the towel
  • Sew the hood down making sure to really back stitch and the beginning and end for added strength. You may even want to sew this seam twice.

Oh my goodness! You are done! Isn’t it the cutest thing?

And since I blog about my creative journeys, there are rarely any real homemade surprises under our Christmas tree. I figure it gives added anticipation. Lol:)! Here are the three towels that I made. After the initial embroidery, which took forever, these towels whipped up in no time!

And of course I had to grab my SWEET grandson and take quick photo to show you how truly adorable this towel really is! Just look how snuggly he is:).

I will not be posting the rest of the week due to the Thanksgiving holiday. I hope those of you in the States have a wonderful holiday filled with family and delicious food. I am Thankful for all of you, my online friends.

“Tying” Up a Scrappy Quilt

Good Morning to you!  It is Scrap Happy time again:).  I always look forward to linking up with Kate over at Tall Tales from Chiconia each month.  

This month’s project is one that I actually feel guilty about.  My sister-in-law’s father passed away back in 2015.  She gave me his ties and asked if I could make a quilt from them for her.

I carefully deconstructed them,  lightly pressed them and placed them in a box to work on after Christmas presents and wedding preparations, and then more quilts, and then they just kind of got forgotten.  I feel so bad!

I was cleaning through things and looked in the box,  and uh oh! I knew that now was the time.  No more waiting for this one!

  • I took the piles of deconstructed ties and cut them into  1.5″ to 2.5″ strips.  I didn’t care how many.  I just cut until I had cut the whole tie.
  • I cut 30 – 8.5″ Scrap fabric from some of my sub quality fabrics.  They really do make great stabilizers!
  • I started sewing strips from the center corner out on both sides.   I didn’t care at all about what width of strip I was using. 

  • When I was finished sewing strips to a block, the whole base was covered as in the top left photo.
  • I turned the block over and trimmed the block nice and square.
  • I then sewed around the edges to keep the ties from shifting.


Here is a picture of my neatly stacked blocks.  Aren’t they pretty?

  • Next I cut 36- 2.5″x8.5″ strips from a complimentary brown fabric (manly of course!) 
  • Then I laid out my blocks going in opposite directions.  A beautiful diamond design magically appeared!
  • I labeled each row with tape to make sewing the rows easier.   I could easily take them all piled together by row to my sewing machine and not get mixed up as I sewed along:)
  • I measured the length of the strips and cut 7 more 2.5″ strips that length and sewed the quilt together.

Here it is all pieced and ready for quilting.


While it looks nice before quilting, it looks especially fantastic after quilting!


The added texture and binding really help to “tie” it all together.  Lol:)!


I backed this quilt with an olive green plaid flannel.   I was surprised with how much I liked it:)


Now it is time to fold it up and get it to my sister-in-law, FINALLY!  I know she is going to be overjoyed❤️


Thank you for dropping by today.  I hope you have SWEET, Scrap Happy day!

Want To Match Up Prints?


Working with checks or large patterns can be  tricky when sewing large pieces together.  Many people like to use checks on the back of quilts, but if you don’t plan ahead, you will end up with something that looks like this:


With a little bit of planning, you will never have this happen to you!  It’s easy!  Here is how:

  • Press the edge of one of your fabric pieces along the edge you want to sew. 

  • Grab your trusty School Glue and place a small line of glue along the edge of the other piece of fabric 

  • Match your folded fabric pattern to the glued fabric.  Don’t worry about matching bottom or side edges.  Just match the pattern.  Press and repeat across the length of your fabric.

  • Take your glued fabric to your sewing machine and sew on the folded line.

Done!  How easy is that?  SWEET❤️!


I hope you will give this technique a try the next time you need to match up a print on your sewing adventures.

Until next time!

By Jove, I Think She’s Got it!

Appliqué has been my quilting nemesis for years.  My stitches always show and the thread really tends to stand out.  

Because I have been so frustrated, and not very patient, I usually just opt to embrace the visible stitches and use my sewing machine with either a small hem stitch or go all out and use a buttonhole stitch with contrasting thread.

I am not at all against machine appliqué, in fact I am a big fan of the speed and consistency of the stitches.  BUT  (I’m sure you knew that was coming) I really WANT to be proficient at appliqué.  I feel that any really good quilter should know how to needle turn.

Well this is it.  This is the quilt where I learn the appliqué ways!  I started out with my usual try to take a small stitch, but the stitches still show technique.   Ugh!  No matter how hard I tried, those stitches showed!

Then I looked at the back and had a brilliant thought—


I said to my myself, ” look at those tiny pinpricks. Why can’t they be on the front?”   Wait a minute–why can’t they?  I know, I know, I’m very slow to the rodeo with this one!   I think everyone else had this figured out long ago.  Where have I been?!


This time I entered my quilt top completely next to where I came out on the last stitch. Do you see where I put the arrow in the above picture?


Here it is again.  The picture on the left shows what I WAS doing. I was entering the fabric a few stitches ABOVE where I came out on the last stitch.  The totally correct awesome way is once again to go back down RIGHT NEXT to where I came out of the fabric on the last stitch.


Look at how pretty that looks!  You can BARELY see the stitches at all!❤️❤️. The back has the long stitches and I’m ok with that:)

I should be quite the proficient when I am done with this Down the Rabbit Hole quilt.  In fact for the next few days I am really going to be stitching and stitching on these leaves!  There are about 50 of them!


Yep,  I think I will have the hang of it for sure by the time I’m done with them:)

Now I have to get the curves a little smoother, but I will get there!  No one is going to be looking that close except me and you:)!

Thank you for stopping by!  I hope my appliqué journey helps any of you who are new to appliqué:)

Life is SWEET!

Down the Rabbit Hole Appliqué Preparation 

Good Morning!  Im glad to be home and back to some bit of normalcy.  The best part of being home is spending a bit of time in my sewing room.   I have been loving some of the fun techniques I am learning in my Down the Rabbit Hole Quilt by Sarah Fielke

I need to be more careful about second guessing how to do things on this quilt.  For instance, I used my normal sew around the circle with fusible web technique.  It is a very good way to make a fusible circle that can be found here.  But I will show you in a minute that should have waited.


Dont they look pretty?


I gathered my 1/4″ bias tape that I made last time I posted about this quilt.  I put a few drops of glue on the back and glued it down around my psychedelic Rabbit Hole. 

Then I ironed my beautiful circles down .  I LOVE it! –But there was an even easier way to make perfect circles.

In section 3 of Sarah’s directions, she introduced me to a new way to make circles for applique.  I know the “Magic Circle” for Crochet. Now I know a magic circle technique for quilting too!❤️❤️

  • First, I gathered my perfect circles templates and took out the circles that were the right size for the pattern. But really a piece of cardboard cut into a circle would work as well.
  • Then I took out my kitchen aluminum foil and cut some squares that were bigger than the circles I was making.  
  • I cut my fabric into circles that were 1/4″ larger than my template circle, but next time I am going to cut them 1/2″ larger for added adjustment.

  • I followed Sarah’s instructions and placed the foil down first, then the fabric with the right side down, followed by the template
  • It was easy to then fold the foil and fabric over the template to make these little foil circles
  • I took the circles to my ironing board and pressed them with my iron.  The foil was very hot so I waited a bit to let them cool:)
  • When I opened my little foil package, there was my pretty little ironed circle!  Easy, easy, easy!!

Can you see why I wish I would have waited on my larger circles?   The interface method worked, but this way was even faster and easier!  

I am so excited to start my hand appliqué.  I  am always tempted to use my machine, but I really WANT to become a proficient hand appliquer.  I will never get there unless I keep trying.


So—Here I go Down the Rabbit Hole!  

Thank you for dropping by and reading about my creative adventures.  I hope you have a SWEET day:)

Granny Star Potholders Pattern and Tutorial

I love buying yarn and fabric on a trip and then coming home and stitching  something up to always remind me of the fun times we had on our adventures.  Maybe you do too!

I bought this bright and crazy “Hippie” yarn at Mendels on Haight Street in San Francisco.  I love the groovy colors!   For my memory project,  I designed a set of  easy, fun potholders.   Here is the pattern if you would like to stitch up a set of your own .


Granny Square PotholdersPattern designed by Tracy @It’s a T-Sweets Day!

Materials Needed:

  • 2 skeins of worsted weight coordinating yarn  (cotton makes the best yarn for Potholders, but I don’t mind a some what toasted yarn pot holder, so I am using acrylic)
  • Size G or 4.5mm hook
  • Large eyed yarn needle
  • Scissors 
  • 8 stitch markers 

These instructions have you change colors at the end of  Round 4 but you can change the colors on as many rounds as you like. Just use the same technique 

Instructions:

Make two squares for each pot holder.

Start by making a magic circle.

Round 1 – Working in magic circle, Ch 3, counts as first dc, 2 dc, ch 2, *3 dc, ch2, repeat from* 2 more times, close your magic circle, join with a sl stitch to the 3rd chain of the beg. Ch3. 

  You now have 4 cluster stitches and 4 ch2 corners.

Round 2 – Ch3, counts as first dc, dc in next 2 st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, 

*dc in next 3 st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp, repeat from * 2 more times, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beg. ch3.  You now have 7dc on each side

Round 3 – Ch3, dc in next 4st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, *dc in next 7st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, repeat from * 2 more times, dc in next 2st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beg. ch3. You now have 11dc on each side

Round 4 – Ch3, dc in next 6st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, *dc in next 11st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, repeat from * 2 more times, dc in next 4st, Change color– to change color, cut the main color leaving a 6″ tail, insert your hook into the the 3rd ch of the beg ch3, pull the new color through and PUL the hanging yarns tight on the back (You now have 15dc on each side)

Round 5- Ch3, dc in next 8st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, *dc in next 15st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, repeat from * 2 more times, dc in next 6st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beg. ch3. (You now have 19dc on each side)

Round 6– Ch3, dc in next 10st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, *dc in next 19st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch 2 sp, repeat from * 2 more times, dc in next 8st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beg. ch3, cut yarn leaving a 6″ tail and pull through to finish. (You should have 23dc on each side)


On the back side of the square, thread a yarn tail into a large eyed needle and weave the tail in by sewing up a few stitches and back down a few stitches two or three times. Cut the thread close to the square. Weave in all of the yarn tails.

Optional flower:  Make one for each pot holder

Round 1 – Make a magic circle. Ch 1, does not count as a st, 16sc in the circle, join to the first sc. Close the magic circle by pulling on the back thread.  


Round 2- ch6, counts as dc and 3ch, *sk next st, dc, ch3, repeat around., join with a sl sr to the 3rd ch of beg ch st. You will have 8 posts and 8 ch3 spaces.

Round 3- sl st into ch3 sp, ch1, *(sc, dc, 2trc, dc, sc) in ch 3 sp, sk next post dc st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st and fasten off  leaving a 24″ tail. You will have 8 petals.  

Weave the magic circle tail thread into the back of the flower.

Thread the long 24″ tail thread onto your needle. Place your flower in the center of your granny square.  Sew a small st in the valley and the tip of each petal to attach the flower to the square. Weave the remaining thread into the back to finish off.
Constructing Your Pot Holder– 

Block your squares by pinning the squares the same size and steam with an iron. DO NOT PRESS OR TOUCH THE IRON TO THE YARN!   You want it to look fresh and pretty for gift giving or for a photo shoot:)

Put the put holders together with the back sides together. Place one square at a diagonal and the other straight like a square.–place a stitch marker in the 6th dc from the corner of each square and connect them in the “valley” of the star. Place a stitch marker in all of the valleys. There will be 8 markers holding your two blocks together.

–with the color of your choice, attach your yarn in any stitch marker stitch. Place your hook through both the top square and bottom square stitches and pull a loop through. Be sure to leave a 6″ tail on the back to weave in at the end.

–ch1, sc in the same valley st, *sc in next 5st, 3sc in the corner chain, sc in the marked stitch going through BOTH squares, sc in the next 5st of the BOTTOM square, 3sc in the corner chain sp, sc in next 5 st, sc in in the next marked st going through both squares, repeat from * around, join with a slip st to the beg sc and fasten off leaving a 6″ tail. Weave in your tails.


Finished!   Far out and Groovy!!  But if you use soft, light colors the words, Fresh and SWEET, might be more appropriate:)


Here are the fronts of my two pot holders.


And here are the backs.  I absolutely LOVE them!  I am sure I will get years of use out of them.  And each time I use them, I will have happy memories of my trip to San Francisco!


I hope you will give this pattern a try.  If you do, please let me know how it goes;).  Until next time!!

Scrap Happy Needle Case

Hello and Happy Tuesday!   Today is a fun day because it is Kate’s Scrap Happy round up day:).  For my Scrappy project I would like to share with you my beautiful  Scrap Happy needle case. 

I  am part of a shoebox swap Christmas gift exchange. I have been getting ready all year.   My swap friend said she needed a needle case.   Sew…I made her one!  Isn’t it cute?

For my inspiration I used a pattern from Nana Company that can be found here. I didn’t really follow her instructions as much as I just kind of looked at them for inspiration. It measures 7″x4″.

I sewed my tiny 1 1/2″  scraps to make the front.  I  drew a free hand Needles on it and stitched it using an easy back stitch with double the thread.

The back is just a single piece of fabric with quilting and a button closure:). But the really fun part is the inside.

I made a little pocket to hold scissors and needle threaders:).  The pages are made from a soft, yummy wool.

Each page has a bit of lace for embellishment.  Isn’t it pretty?  

I found this lace as I was rummaging through my ribbon and lace scrap drawer for embellishments.  I knew it would be perfect!

I cut around the flowers and then sprayed them on the back with Scotch permanent fabric adhesive.  I did this on top of a paper towel to keep my table clean.  Then I glued them to the wool page.  Easy!!

I just loved making this SWEET little needle case!  I think I might have to make another for me:)

I hope you have a Happy Scrappy Day!

Improve Your Coloring by Using Pastels

I had so much fun on my coloring retreat with my daughter.  We like to get together once a year just to create.  Sometimes we sew sometimes we make things for the children.

This year she wanted to make file folder activities that she could take to church or use for quiet time at home.  I was so glad:). We used a book that I made file folders for her when she was young!  

Here was our material list:

  • A Finch Family Fun Games file folder book. You can buy these on Amazon.
  • Pastels 
  • Colored Markers
  • Colored card stock 
  • Spray glue
  • Scissors
  • Sticky back magnet roll
  • Facial tissue and ear swabs
  • Large eraser
  • Laminator and laminate
  • File folders 
  • Letter envelopes
  • Clear packing tape

That is a big list! We already had most of these items.  I bought the new box of pastels.  They were at Hobby Lobby on sale..  yea!!  Pretty!


Have you ever colored with pastels?  They are so easy and fun!  Once you color with them, there is no going back to any other way!

Here was my first page:

Really,  I just laid down my color, not even to the edges and the just blended the chalk with a tissue or swab.   I then added shading and highlights the same way:)


Here it is again, I laid down the color, took a tissue and blended it to the edges.


Wow!  Look how neat that looks:)!   Another cool thing about coloring with pastels is that they are erasable.  So if you go too far out of the lines, no problem. Just erase and you are good as new.  How cool is that?!

Adding outlining with marker is the next step. 

While it looks nice here,  the shading and colors are so pretty:)


It looks brighter and more vibrant here.  But be warned, marker is NOT erasable! Lol:). Oh well, a little patch job and a 3year old will never know.  There is going to be a magnet there anyway. It’s all good:). 


It was messy, fun work.  We enjoyed the days just  coloring, cutting, visiting, and helping my grandson color and cut as well.  I even took quite a few breaks and snuggled with my new grand baby:). It doesn’t get better than that!

The next step was laminating the pieces and adding the magnets.  Here is a close up of the magnets:


Magnets help keep the pieces from moving and getting lost while little hands play and squirm:). 


I added the title to the folder and taped an envelope to the back to hold the pieces.  FINISHED!


Isn’t it so cute? My grandson grabbed it and started matching the shapes, saying the colors, and pretended to eat the vegetables right way:). It was so SWEET!


We had such a fun time on our coloring retreat:). Using pastels definitely amps up the coloring.  We loved it!!  I hope you give it a try sometime. You will be so glad you did!

Thank you for dropping by!

Learn to Quilt – Lesson 7 -Finish and Photo Shoot!

It’s a wonderful day because today is the finishing of our Pins and Stripes quilting lessons!  Yea!!   This lesson is going to take you several days or even longer.  Don’t stress.  Just enjoy the journey and take it one step at a time.  It’s all good:)


In our last lesson, we finished the borders all around out quilt top.  It looks so pretty, but really, it isn’t a quilt yet.  We need to prepare a back, gather our batting, sew it together, and bind it. Wow! There is a lot to a quilt!

First, let’s talk about our backing. Your backing should measure at least 8″ wider and longer than your top.  This is  to make sure that it still covers the whole quilt after quilting.

You can buy 108″ backing fabric at your local fabric store.  Or you can piece together fabric until it large enough to be bigger than your top.


This is my backing.  I didn’t have enough of the checked fabric in my stash so I added the stripe.  I really like how it looks.  Quilters make do!

  • If you are using  42″ wide fabric, you will need to have 5 yards of fabric.
  • Cut this piece in half making two pieces of fabric 2.5 yards each
  • Sew them together lengthwise making sure to cover the entire selvedge in your seam. You will need to make a 5/8″ seam to do this instead of our normal 1/4″.
  • Iron out all of the wrinkles and press your seam open.

Now for the quilting.  I highly, highly, highly recommend taking your beautiful quilt to a longarm quilter in your area and having them quilt it .

You will get a perfectly backed, fun stitched, no headache quilt in return.  Once again, your local quilt shop can direct you to several quilters in your area.

But if you want to save the money or the packing up of your stuff and heading to the store again, I get it, I have been there too:).   Here is how you can quilt it at home.  You are going to need a lot of safety pins or fabric spray glue.

  • Lay your backing with the right side down or the wrong side facing up on a large hard surfaced floor.
  • With your masking tape, tape it down all the way around
  • Lay your batting on top.  If you are spray basting, spray the backing first and then lay the batting down on top
  • Lay the quilt top on top of the batting.  Once again, spray the batting first if you are spray basting.
  • If you are pinning, now pin through all three layers at the center of every block.
  • Lift your quilt off of the floor and take it to your machine
  • Stitch in the ditch around all of the squares.  Sew one straight line all the way down
  • Repeat for all of the rows, go one direction, then other.

You can add as much quilting as you like.  Just keep sewing in all of the seams:)


Now that our quilt is quilted, the final step is the binding.   Don’t worry, it isn’t hard.  This method is easy! Just remember to take it slow, one step at a time:)

When you get your quilt back, it will look like this:

  • Cut the batting and the backing even with the top.
  • Use your ruler to square up the corners and straighten the edges.
  • Sew 1/4″ all the way around your quilt to keep the edges together as we bind.  Nothing is more frustrating than a shifty bottomed quilt that doesn’t get caught in the binding.
  • From the remaining blues or color #2, cut 8 strips 2.5″ wide.  If you are using smaller lengths, you need 310″ or so.
  • Take all of these strips to your machine.
  • Place one strip horizontally on your table. Place a second strip on top going vertically.  Be sure to match the edges.
  • Sew from the top left corner to the bottom right corner.  Use your masking tape from before as your sewing guide.
  • Chain sew the next piece and the next in the same manner
  • Keep sewing them all together until you have one REALLY long  2.5″ strip.
  • Trim all of the extra fabric at the seam down to 1/4″
  • Press the seams open and cut off all of the little dog ear pieces hanging below the edges.
  • Press your entire strip in half
  • Starting sewing in the middle of a long edge on the back side of your quilt.  Place your folded fabric strip on the edge with the raw edges together. Leave a 12″ tail at the top.  Start sewing with your 1/4″ foot where I have marked with the pin.
  • Sew all the way down the side of the quilt until a little before  1/4″ of the end.  Your presser foot should have a 1/4″ mark on it like in the above picture. Stop sewing a little before that mark reaches the edge of your quilt.
  • Cut your threads and raise your presser foot,
  • Place the edge of your quilt on a straight lined surface.  I use the edge of my machine.  You may need to use your cutting mat if you have a round edged machine.
  • Fold the binding back so it is also on the straight edge of your surface going the opposite direction creating a perfect 45 degree angle fold as in the top left picture above
  • Hold that angled piece as you fold the binding back on itself.  Hold it tight and turn it so you can start sewing down the next side.
  • Sew about 3 inches down, cut your threads and check your corner by flipping it over. It should be nice and crisp. If it isn’t, take out the stitching and start again.  3″ isn’t too hard to fix:).
  • If it looks good,  continue to sew and repeat the same process on the remaining three sides
  • Sew until you are about 12″ away from your beginning stitch.  Back stitch and cut your threads.
  • Take your quilt to a large flat surface like your cutting mat.
  • Fold both ends of your binding back on themselves leaving about 1/4″ space between them.
  • Cut the left piece at this fold
  • Open the piece you just cut and lay it on top of the right piece.
  • Use this as your measurement to cut the top folded part of the right binding. Do not cut through all four pieces of fabric. Only cut the top two pieces leaving a folded piece of binding.
  • Fold the left side of the binding on an angle as in the top left picture.  Really finger press that angle.
  • Place the right binding on to the left side
  • Open the right binding and really hold it there.
  • This next part feels a little awkward, but it’s not too hard, you can do this:)! — while holding the edges together, lift both pieces of binding up and pin them together.
  • Your quilt will feel heavy, but hold that pinned piece together and bring it back to your machine.
  • Bunch your quilt up to the left and sew on the mark you created by finger pressing.   Sew from the top left to the bottom right corner. Use your tape as your guide:)
  • Check to make sure your binding now fits your quilt, and then trim the excess corner off with your scissors.
  • Sew the final 12″ of your binding down to your quilt.
  • Change your threads.  The bobbin thread should match your backing fabric and the top thread should match your binding.   They might be two different colors.  Mine are.
  • Starting in the middle of one side, fold your binding over to the right side of your quilt.  You do not have to fold the entire binding over, just a few inches.
  • Make sure the binding is covering the stitching, and start to sew.  Use the left inside edge of your presser foot as the guide for the placement of the edge of your binding.
  • As you sew, the top of the binding will have a cute little edge stitch and the bottom of your quilt will have stitching that blends into the backing fabric.  Easy!
  • Sew all the way to the edge of your quilt.  Stop right at the edge.
  • Fold the binding up to make a perfect mitered corner.  Just look at your pretty corner ! And how simple was that?!
  • Continue sewing all the way around your quilt repeating the corner technique.

DONE!!  You have finished your quilt!!!  Isn’t it beautiful?!  You deserve a fun photo shoot! And how about a picnic?   SWEET!!

Thank you so much for joining in on this quilting journey.  You are now equipped with the necessary tools and skills to make many more quilts.  I warn you, quilting is quite addictive:)!

If any of you are just joining us, you can find the previous lessons here:

I hate to say goodbye to this fun adventure, but I am sure we will sew together again.

Until next time,

Don’t forget to post your finished Quilt on Instagram #pinsandstripesqal I will be giving away a jelly roll to someone who posts a picture from all seven lessons and a picture of themselves with their new quilt by the end of July 2017!!  Be sure to check that all of your pictures are in the file:)

Learn to Quilt – Lesson #5 -Lay Out

Hello again!  Today is going to be a fun day. We are going to be laying out all of our blocks and sewing them together to make our quilt! Fun!!!:)

We have a lot to do so let’s get started.

Take all of your finished blocks to a place in your house that has a large enough floor space to lay out about 70″x80″.  Start laying each block down with one block having the stripes go vertically and the next block having the stripes go horizontally.


Look at how the pin wheels magically appear!  Lay your blocks into 12 rows of 10 blocks each.  Lay them out and arrange the blocks so the colors are the way you like them.

Woo hoo!  We are ready to sew:)!!   It is a little tricky to make sure all of these blocks are sewn exactly in the place we have put them.  But don’t worry, if you are patient with walking back and forth from your machine to your laid out blocks, you will have no problems at all.


The first thing we have to do is mark the left side of the first block of each row.  I like to use clover clips, but you could use stickers, safety pins, or bobby pins.  Whatever you have to mark that side of that square is fine.  In fact, if you use stickers, you could even write the number of the row.   That would be the BEST way:)


Starting on the top #1 row,  place the left square on top of the square to the right.  Place those squares on top of the next square, and those on top of the next. Keep placing your squares on top of each other until the whole row is in a pile.  Take this pile to your sewing area.

  • Move the top square to the left of the pile
  • Flip the next square over on top of that square like turning the page of a book
  • Sew the right edge of these blocks together.
  • Open the blocks up and add the next block to the right side of the last block
  • As you are sewing, check to make sure the flipped cream pieces are snug together tightly or as I like to say, “kissing” each other. You can feel this with your fingers as you go, or you can pin them if you need to.
  • The half  pinwheel should have the point 1/4″ up from the edge and look like this:
  • Repeat this process until all 10 blocks are sewn together.
  • Take your row to the ironing board and press the seams flat and smooth.

Yea!  Our first row is done!


Take it back to our layed quilt and lay it in its place and repeat the process for all of the rest  rows.  Whew!  That is a lot of walking back and forth.  But believe me, you won’t get lost in your quilt this way.

Now let’s take row #1 and #2 to our sewing machine.  Be sure to mark #1 row with an extra clip or sticker to be able to keep them in the right order.  Here is why the stickers with the row # written on it would be the best method of marking that left edge.


Sew the bottom of row #1 to the top of  row #2.  Make sure that the blocks are kissing each other at the seams as you go.


Sew the whole row together and press it open.

Just look at this beautiful, magical pinwheel! SWEET!!


Sew and press all of the rows together in this same manner.

Woo hoo!!!!  Your quilt is all sewn together and it looks FANTASTIC!!

We are almost done with our quilt.  In our next lesson we will add the border.  See you then:)

Don’t forget to post pictures of your fabric and progress on Instagram #pinsandstripesqal I will be giving away a jelly roll to someone who posts a picture from all seven lessons and a picture of themselves with their new quilt by the end of July 2017!!

If any of you are just joining us, you can find the previous lessons here: